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CLIMB MOUNT RAINIER-2014

tendi--Rainier-Summit

CLIMB MOUNT RAINIER-2014
Seattle, Washington.

Dispatch: 18.08.2014:

We are doing this climbing as a friends as it’s first time for all of us. This climb is also for us to promote our HIMALI brand on the top of the mount Rainier, so we will be taking some video footage and pictures of himali brand during our climb.

tendi-at-summit

About Our climb of Rainier;

Yesterday we started our journey from San Francisco to Seattle and then met with our climbing partner Dave Schaffer and Doug at the Seattle international airport.
We visited the REI shop to get some high foods and we drive about 1 and half hours until the RMI office and Whittaker mountaineering shop. It was so great to visit the RMI office as well as KC groom one of the RMI guide and other staffs. We got some gears rented at the Whittaker mountaineering store and then we continued until the last town where we spent over night (Paradise Inn). This place was amazing with nice and well equipped guest house. The view over the Mount Rainier and some part of rainier national park was beautiful.
We got into our room which was great and we organized everything for climbing Rainier tomorrow.
We were lucky to get the permit by 5 pm before they shut down the office.

Everything was pretty simple and easy to get the permit, food and sleep here. Obviously there were lot of visitors who spend overnight and hike to the park and back to their home so the permit office were busy and hotels were busy too.
We set up our alarm for 8 am tomorrow morning and we all went to bed early today :)

19.08.2014

We got up at 8 am and started to repack everything, and we put all the rest of gears into the jeep of Doug and he left on the parking till we get back.
Weather doesn’t look good due to some clouds over the mountains and the lower land, but we are good because the weather reports looks very good on our summit day tomorrow.

It will be my first trip on mount Rainier today! Pretty excited and hoping for the best weather and good conditions. Olya has come about five years ago but did not summit I supposed due to the bad weather, but she is very strong climber and has summitted aconcagua twice, Elbrus, Mont Blanc and many other mountains around the globe, and for Doug it’s his first climb ever so he is super excited doing this, for Dave Schaffer this is his first time on Mount Rainier but has done already acconcagua and Denali and lot of fourteen thousands feet mountains in Colorado.

We had a lovely breakfast in the morning and then we started moving at 10:08 am with our big pack (25 kg).
The first few hours of walk was fast and sweaty but then we decided to slow down our speed since we need to acclimatize by climbing slowly. We met lot of people along the trial mostly hikers. The temperature was hot, but we stopped every hour to rehydrate and then climbed slowly. We were able to see beautiful alpine flowers, plants, trees, Glaciers and so friendly marmot on the trial.

I met two Sherpa guides Lakpa Rita and Lakpa Gelu who were coming down after the summit of Mt Rainier.
Most of the trial was snowy so we got our feet wet as we wore only the sport shoes but we did ok with that, obviously walking poles were remarkable to climb on that gentle snowy slope.
As weather was hot due to sunshine over snow we were sweating so we just didn’t hesitate to drink water, energy gel like Gu, chocolate bars which made us feel pretty strong until we got the camp muir.
After 1600m of total ascend we finally arrived at the Camp Muir which is at an elevation of 14000 feet. Great job Doug, Olya and Dave for the wonderful time today!
There were some hut with very limited dormitory beds and so two of us put our tent on snow and two other got the bed in dormitory.
There were quite a lot of climbers for tomorrow for the summit. I met with JJ one of the RMI’s best guide. Since it was our first time except for Olya and as she doesn’t know much about here, I got some good informations regarding the mountains, camps, waters and toilets.
It was great that we can use the rangers toilet.
We got some snow from near the tent and boiled some waters and had wonderful boiling bag food, mine was spaghetti which was great :)
At camp we spent our time chatting with other climbers and boiling water, filling our bottles for tomorrow morning.

We set up our alarm for 12:30 tomorrow morning and we will be starting by 1:00 am, and we are planning to follow the group of JJ!!! Good night…

20.08.2014

Our alarm rings at 12:30 am. It wasn’t a great sleep because of peoples moving here and there around the camp and some people seemed to have left around 12 am which is super early. I asked with RMI guide JJ and he said that the time for leaving for the summit is between 12:30 am to 2 am.
We took almost 30 minutes to gear up and get ready. I put Olya, Dave and Doug on the rope and left the camp at 1:12 am and by that time we were almost the last group to start from the camp.

As I was leading for the first time on this mountain, I was just following some of the guideline on map but mostly i followed the other climbers who were ahead of us, so it wasn’t that hard to find a tracks. There are some places where you have to travel in glaciers with several crevasse and possible rock fall zone but we just need to be careful.
We finally got the day light above the disappointment ridge and then had lovely sun rise view couple hundreds feet below the summit.
It’s such a lovely feeling on mountain that more you go high more beautiful things you see from height!

We all climbed slowly and finally reached the summit of incredible Mount Rainier. Lower part of the mountains were covered with some clouds but still we were able to see the mount Adams in far distance as well as some other surrounding peaks in Washington.
It was first time for Doug to climb a mountain and that he has never walked and climbed in climbing gears before, but Doug been very strong and did great job for the first time.
For olya it was her second attempt of Mount Rainier, she came last year but due to the bad weather she had to turn around with her team but practically she has been climbing lot mountains over the past few year. Dave Schaffer is first time on Mount Rainier, but he has done lot of other climb back in his home colorado, solo Mount acconcagua in Argentina and Mount Denali in Alaska.

Spent some time on the summit taking some great photos and videos with the team and then since we are the last group on the summit, we started to go down. Usually the weather gets bad in the after noon and because of the day heats the snow conditions are less compact and so wet. So its always better we get down sooner as possible before noon.
Climb up was great and also down but took little while to get down since we had to be careful with some possible rock fall and crevasses.
After reaching at high camp, we just relaxed our body for a while and had some water.
We packed up our gears and then moved to the base camp where we have left our rest of gears and Doug’s jeep.

summit-rainier

We spent so nice time on Mount Rainier. I was so happy to visit RMI office and some of the guides. Seattle is beautiful with its national park and mount Rainier!

What People Say

  • Tendi is one of the most amazing and talented people that I have ever met. He is an inspirational leader who successfully led our team to the summit of Everest on May 23, 2016. As a 25-year-old girl, I was one of the youngest of our group and a bit apprehensive of the enormity of our expedition, but I have to say that every step of the way I felt safe and in good hands with Tendi leading our team.

    From the moment I first was introduced to Tendi I had total trust and respect in him as a guide. His knowledge for the mountain and understanding how to communicate effectively with the different people and nationalities was remarkable. The summit is one thing but the climb down is where things can go wrong. I was very nervous for the descent but both Tendi, and my personal Sherpa Pasang calmed my nerves and assured me that we would get down safely.

    Our group had 100% summit success rate…but for Tendi success wasn’t the summit; success was getting our whole group down safely and being able to hug at advanced base camp complete with huge smiles on our faces. Tendi is a very special person that has left a huge impression on me and my life. I am so fortunate to have had the opportunity to climb with such man as Tendi!

  • Dear Tendi,

    I just wanted to say thank you to you one more time for this amazing experience!

    From the moment we all met in the USA I knew it was going to be a once in a lifetime journey. Your knowledge of trekking and the trials assured me we were all in great hands and I so much enjoyed learning about Nepal. Thank you for letting me pester you with all sorts of questions and teaching (Dr.) Sara and I (and the rest) some nepali and Sherpa- it was so fun!

    You are such an inspiration of a kind person who works so hard for their family.

    Your happy disposition is a pleasure to be around and always a reminder to smile :)

    I so greatly appreciate your sharing of Buddhism as well- I look forward to incorporating some practices in my own life and hope to study the philosophy more back in the States.

    Your business, trekking team, and family are all such a pleasure to be around- I’m so grateful we had the opportunity to meet them all (and I hope to see them again in the future!).

    Sara and I are excited to talk to our sorority (AST) about supporting your NGO in help of your village’s education and look forward to keeping in touch with you.

    Once more- thank you so much!

    -oh and your daughter is beautiful! I cannot wait to see her grow up to be another Ship grad :)

    All the best,
    Shelby

  • Tendi Sherpa is not only an amazing climbing guide, he is also an amazing friend. I first met Tendi in 2007 while climbing Everest. I was not feeling well while at camp III. Tendi and Ongdi Sherpa assisted me in reaching camp II safely. Later that night I developed severe HAPE. I credit Tendi and Ongdi for saving my life that night, and assisting me in my descent of the Khumbu Icefall, while being really sick.

    After Tendi reached the summit of Everest on May 16th 2007, he repeated an ascent with me on May 24th. I had recovered from HAPE in Namche Bazaar and was anxious to reach the summit before the monsoon came in. We climbed hard and fast. I have never met anyone with more strength and energy than Tendi Sherpa and Willie Beneges. We reached the summit of Everest 5 hours and 45 minutes after leaving camp IV then descended all the way to camp II in a single push.

    I would climb any mountain in the world with Tendi. He has become a close friend and also serves as a board member on an organization that I founded- Helping Assist Nepal’s Disabled (H.A.N.D.) Tendi has a huge heart and love for people. He is devoted to helping others in Nepal to have a better life.

    Brian smith
    Jacksonville, Oregon, USA
    www.handnepal.org

  • “We just summited Aconcagua, the first Nepali and the first Russian female to summit via Polish Glacier route. Tendi turned to me and said: “Now you do not need a guide to climb Aconcagua.” Ha! Tendi raised the bar!

    Thank you, dai, for bringing me closer to my aspiration of climbing unguided and unsupported; for making me a better climber and a better human being; leading me to great heights both mountains and spiritual.

    In the presence of Tendi Sherpa, one will find sound guidance, risk assessment, decision making, safety priority, and the highest level of expertise. Tendi is a true guide at heart, phenomenal climber and a beautiful human being.
    Thank you for your guidance and your friendship, Tendi!”

    Olya Lapina, entrepreneur, climber
    Sanfrancisco, USA
    www.mountica.com

  • I reached the summit of Mount Everest in May 2012 and Tendi Sherpa, with his experience of 10 previous summits, was crucial in such an accomplishment.

    During my stay in the Himalayas, I asked Tendi lots of questions about his culture, religion, etc. Maybe my questions were very silly, considering I belong to the Occidental World. It´s such a different culture! But I always found Tendi ready to share all his knowledge with humility and kindness.

    I had the opportunity to meet Tendi in a two-month expedition in the Himalayas. During that time I got to know a kindhearted person who not only made me laugh with his jokes, but also had the right words in the most difficult situations I had to undergo.

    It`s amazing to see how many characteristics coexist in the same person; the innocence of a curious young man, the determination of an experienced climber, and the permanent good mood of a wise person.

    Even during the toughest moments of the expedition, there he was, with his wide smile, ready for a friendly chat.

     

    Hernan Carracedo
    Neuquén, Argentina
    www.everest2012.com.ar

  • Tendi Sherpa was one of the leader/guides during my attempt to climb the highest point on the planet outside of the Himalayas – Aconcagua, in the Andes of Argentina, with my two sons and nephew in 2013. What a tremendous honour it was. Later that year, my daughter and I caught up with Tendi in Kathmandu, where we met his family and were shown his astonishing variety of well-kept climbing gear.

    Tendi is well-respected in the Sherpa and wider Nepalese communities, and other guides and climbers seek out his guidance. He has summited Everest with clients on multiple occasions, as well as other peaks around the world.

    His strength and perseverance, his knowledge and common sense, and his courage are legendary. His self-effacing nature, sparkling personality, politeness and sense of humour serve him well on the mountains, where things do not always go to plan.

    I would travel with him anywhere!

    From your friend

    Robert
    Brisbane, Queensland, Australia

  • Truly one of the most fascinating individuals I’ve met in my life…meet Tendi Sherpa. He has an aura that captivates the attention of everyone within his reach and his personality glows so bright he could light a room. 

    Tendi has 10 summits of Mt. Everest (and counting). This season, he became the first Nepali to summit Aconcagua by the Polish Glacier Direct route. Congratulations Tendi! It was great to meet you! Good luck this May :)

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