CLIMB MOUNT RAINIER-2014
CLIMB MOUNT RAINIER-2014
We are doing this climbing as a friends as it’s first time for all of us. This climb is also for us to promote our HIMALI brand on the top of the mount Rainier, so we will be taking some video footage and pictures of himali brand during our climb.
About Our climb of Rainier;
Yesterday we started our journey from San Francisco to Seattle and then met with our climbing partner Dave Schaffer and Doug at the Seattle international airport.
We visited the REI shop to get some high foods and we drive about 1 and half hours until the RMI office and Whittaker mountaineering shop. It was so great to visit the RMI office as well as KC groom one of the RMI guide and other staffs. We got some gears rented at the Whittaker mountaineering store and then we continued until the last town where we spent over night (Paradise Inn). This place was amazing with nice and well equipped guest house. The view over the Mount Rainier and some part of rainier national park was beautiful.
We got into our room which was great and we organized everything for climbing Rainier tomorrow.
We were lucky to get the permit by 5 pm before they shut down the office.
Everything was pretty simple and easy to get the permit, food and sleep here. Obviously there were lot of visitors who spend overnight and hike to the park and back to their home so the permit office were busy and hotels were busy too.
We set up our alarm for 8 am tomorrow morning and we all went to bed early today
We got up at 8 am and started to repack everything, and we put all the rest of gears into the jeep of Doug and he left on the parking till we get back.
Weather doesn’t look good due to some clouds over the mountains and the lower land, but we are good because the weather reports looks very good on our summit day tomorrow.
It will be my first trip on mount Rainier today! Pretty excited and hoping for the best weather and good conditions. Olya has come about five years ago but did not summit I supposed due to the bad weather, but she is very strong climber and has summitted aconcagua twice, Elbrus, Mont Blanc and many other mountains around the globe, and for Doug it’s his first climb ever so he is super excited doing this, for Dave Schaffer this is his first time on Mount Rainier but has done already acconcagua and Denali and lot of fourteen thousands feet mountains in Colorado.
We had a lovely breakfast in the morning and then we started moving at 10:08 am with our big pack (25 kg).
The first few hours of walk was fast and sweaty but then we decided to slow down our speed since we need to acclimatize by climbing slowly. We met lot of people along the trial mostly hikers. The temperature was hot, but we stopped every hour to rehydrate and then climbed slowly. We were able to see beautiful alpine flowers, plants, trees, Glaciers and so friendly marmot on the trial.
I met two Sherpa guides Lakpa Rita and Lakpa Gelu who were coming down after the summit of Mt Rainier.
Most of the trial was snowy so we got our feet wet as we wore only the sport shoes but we did ok with that, obviously walking poles were remarkable to climb on that gentle snowy slope.
As weather was hot due to sunshine over snow we were sweating so we just didn’t hesitate to drink water, energy gel like Gu, chocolate bars which made us feel pretty strong until we got the camp muir.
After 1600m of total ascend we finally arrived at the Camp Muir which is at an elevation of 14000 feet. Great job Doug, Olya and Dave for the wonderful time today!
There were some hut with very limited dormitory beds and so two of us put our tent on snow and two other got the bed in dormitory.
There were quite a lot of climbers for tomorrow for the summit. I met with JJ one of the RMI’s best guide. Since it was our first time except for Olya and as she doesn’t know much about here, I got some good informations regarding the mountains, camps, waters and toilets.
It was great that we can use the rangers toilet.
We got some snow from near the tent and boiled some waters and had wonderful boiling bag food, mine was spaghetti which was great
At camp we spent our time chatting with other climbers and boiling water, filling our bottles for tomorrow morning.
We set up our alarm for 12:30 tomorrow morning and we will be starting by 1:00 am, and we are planning to follow the group of JJ!!! Good night…
Our alarm rings at 12:30 am. It wasn’t a great sleep because of peoples moving here and there around the camp and some people seemed to have left around 12 am which is super early. I asked with RMI guide JJ and he said that the time for leaving for the summit is between 12:30 am to 2 am.
We took almost 30 minutes to gear up and get ready. I put Olya, Dave and Doug on the rope and left the camp at 1:12 am and by that time we were almost the last group to start from the camp.
As I was leading for the first time on this mountain, I was just following some of the guideline on map but mostly i followed the other climbers who were ahead of us, so it wasn’t that hard to find a tracks. There are some places where you have to travel in glaciers with several crevasse and possible rock fall zone but we just need to be careful.
We finally got the day light above the disappointment ridge and then had lovely sun rise view couple hundreds feet below the summit.
It’s such a lovely feeling on mountain that more you go high more beautiful things you see from height!
We all climbed slowly and finally reached the summit of incredible Mount Rainier. Lower part of the mountains were covered with some clouds but still we were able to see the mount Adams in far distance as well as some other surrounding peaks in Washington.
It was first time for Doug to climb a mountain and that he has never walked and climbed in climbing gears before, but Doug been very strong and did great job for the first time.
For olya it was her second attempt of Mount Rainier, she came last year but due to the bad weather she had to turn around with her team but practically she has been climbing lot mountains over the past few year. Dave Schaffer is first time on Mount Rainier, but he has done lot of other climb back in his home colorado, solo Mount acconcagua in Argentina and Mount Denali in Alaska.
Spent some time on the summit taking some great photos and videos with the team and then since we are the last group on the summit, we started to go down. Usually the weather gets bad in the after noon and because of the day heats the snow conditions are less compact and so wet. So its always better we get down sooner as possible before noon.
Climb up was great and also down but took little while to get down since we had to be careful with some possible rock fall and crevasses.
After reaching at high camp, we just relaxed our body for a while and had some water.
We packed up our gears and then moved to the base camp where we have left our rest of gears and Doug’s jeep.
We spent so nice time on Mount Rainier. I was so happy to visit RMI office and some of the guides. Seattle is beautiful with its national park and mount Rainier!