Rescue training Nepal, summer-2014
One week mountain rescue training was organized by Nepal Mountaineering Instructors Association (NMIA).
For this course, I was appointed as a chief instructor including 3 other instructors to teach the one week basic mountain rescue course to the climbers from Nepal.
Training date and place:
- 17th June, NMIA hall Gairidhara, Kathmandu.
- 18th June, Balaju indoor wall climbing center.
- 19th June, Balaju indoor wall climbing center.
- 20th June, Nagarjun forest natural rock climbing center.
- 21st June, Nagarjun Forest natural rock climbing center.
- 22nd June, Astrek wall Thamel, Kathmandu.
- 23rd June, Balaju indoor wall climbing center.
Aim of Training:
Aim of the training was how to rescue a fallen climber from the crevasse in two different condition ( 1- fallen climber is conscious and he/she can come up themselves with support of some rope &- 2, fallen climber is unconscious and cannot respond the rescuer).
They learnt following methods to perform for this type of rescue:
- Introduction about the types of crevasse, safety of everyone involved in rescue as well as the injury, rescue, team work, well preparation, communication, understanding and decision making.
- Introduction of major crevasse rescue gears.
- Necessary rope knots to be used for the rescue propose.
- Artificial and natural Anchoring systems with moveable and fixed.
- Proper belay and active rappelling systems.
- Climbing calls.
- Self rescue method using minimal and light gears you may possibly have on mountain.
- Pulley method to pull up the fallen climber from the crevasse using Jumar and prussic with the condition of having lot of manpower, or in the condition you are alone!
- Injury lowering system from the vertical cliff caring injured on the back of a guide or rescuers.
At the end all the participants were taken short exam on the subject they learnt and maximum have performed well and NMIA have felicitated all of them providing the certificated.
This one week training was short but great, importantly every participants have enjoyed it and understood. No injuries, everyday on time, no objection were occurred during the whole training.
Among 11 participants more than half were veteran Everest and other high mountain summiteers.
It was a wonderful pleasure to teach them and I hope that all who learnt will practice in very safe way and hope that mountain risk and accident will be minimized by this kind of knowledge they have gained. Save yourself and save others…
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